On May 5 2005, Paul Swanstrom of Haines (Alaska Mt Flying and Travel) flew our group of five from Yakutat to a landing zone on the upper Seward Glacier. We were dropped at about 7000 feet, near the Canadian border under the southeast arm of Mt Vancouver, with the aim of skiing Mt Cook. Although the pilot reported that the previous week had been unseasonably warm and huge runnels prevented us from landing closer to Mt Cook, a short tour on the first day unveiled soft conditions on the northern aspects. Better yet the view from camp showed a near perfect and likely continuous run down Mt Cook!


Kajsa Krieger flying into the St Elias mountains.


Flying into the St Elais range.


Peter Linn, Scott Morley, Kajsa Krieger, and Tobey Carmen at the Mt Cook basecamp. Mt Vancouver in the backdrop.

Incredulous that we were indeed in the St Elais Range, and that indeed we were not yet “digging for our lives,” we decided to pack up and launch on the second day. We threw our stuff together planning on several nights at the base of the route, and maybe a couple nights on the mountain.

Peter Linn heading toward Mt Cook.

“Tobey, you threw that gallon of gas on your sled right?” “I though you had it?” “Shit. I sure hope the weather holds!” So we started up the next morning with barely enough fuel for two nights on the mountain, and one back at the base… if we ate mostly dry food and didn’t boil our water. No storming allowed!


Half way up Mt Cook.

So we started up the next morning with barely enough fuel for two nights on the mountain, and one back at the base… if we ate mostly dry food and didn’t boil our water. No storming allowed! After dashing under a couple seracs we ducked into the scant shelter of our chosen rib and started booting up the route. Soft boot-top snow led over ever steepening undulations to underneath a severely overhung serac. We detoured climbers left and over two short ice bulges. One long ascending traverse brought us to the pass at the head of the North Fork of the Turner Glacier.

The following day we skinned and booted, weaving around gaping cracks, and traversed all the way around the north side of the mountain to finally gain access to the summit pyramid via the northwest aspect. After slamming a couple golf balls off the summit we clicked in and schussed back to camp.

Tobey Carmen Slaming a few balls of the Sumit of Mt Cook.

Peter Skiing through a cravess section off the summit of Mt Cook.

With our egos inflated from the ease of skiing on the top half of the mountain, we underestimated the severity of the lower half. Carrying our bivy, the initial slope from the pass proved to be absolutely puckering and about twice as steep we remembered. Perfect, wind buffed soft snow saved us from certain death as we sketched across the traverse. Two 20 foot rappels got us around the ice bulges and another 2000 feet of puckeringly steep skiing got us around the ‘shrund and back to our lower camp.

Skier-Kajsa Kierger

Having completed our goal so early in the trip, the remainder was somewhat listless, but we managed a several day tour under the immense south aspect of Vancouver. During this time the path of the sun changed enough that only a very narrow aspect range without diurnal crusts remained good for powder skiing. We also had about 6 days of poor visibility and light snowfall during which we explored the terrain park potential of the massive wind-carved moats surrounding the rock formations around basecamp. Our route of appears to be the descent route of the second ascent party, (AAJ)

Base Camp.

Tobey, Kajsa, and Pete preparing for a midnight tour.

The south Face of Mt Logan.

Tobey Peter and Scott in the snow cave.

Kajsa and Tobey at base camp.

Kajsa Krieger.

Images by Andrew McGarry